‘The Wave I Was Dreaming of for So Many Years, and I Finally Got It’: Watch Matahi Drollet Defy the Odds at Teauhpo’o

Matahi Drollet knows magic when he feels it. He couldn’t bring himself to toss a beat-up 6’8” Dylan Longbottom, a shape he acquired seven years ago, which is a remarkably long time to survive a wave as hungry as Teahupo'o. Thanks to Matahi's efforts, this board has probably clocked more time in deep caverns than some cave divers. Despite its numerous dings and buckles, Matahi has stuck with it, calling it a truly special surfboard. 

He'd already ridden this Dylan through several special waves that surprised even himself. But his wave on Monday, July 28, stands apart. Just watch the video below and you'll understand why.

“Today was a really good day,” Matahi said. “It wasn't as big as uh what we thought it was going to be, but it was still really good for paddling. And I probably got the ride of my life this morning.”

It is, frankly, an absurdly technical and impressive ride in a career filled with more technical and impressive rides than I can count. Here's most of Matahi's breakdown of what Kelly Slater called "one of the greatest ever Teahupo'o waves."

“That wave went by so fast," he continued. "It was like the wave I was dreaming of for so many years, and I finally got it,” he continued. “It was crazy because when I first saw the wave, I thought for sure I’m going to eat shit, but let’s give it a try. So I started paddling for it, and as I started making the drop, I disconnected from the wave, thought I was going to eat shit. And somehow I made the drop and I had the perfect position with my feet on the board, and it gave me that extra speed off the bottom. 

“As I looked up, I saw that huge wall and thought, ‘You’re way too deep. There’s no way you’re going to make that. But I just tried. I did the highline and I saw the foamball coming and it hit me super hard. It lifted me up in the air. I had such a unique view, I was like above the barrel and looking down at the exit. I could see the foamball underneath it. It was a moment I’ll never forget because it was such a unique view. Next thing you know, I’m getting blown out of the barrel. As I’m making it, I’m like please don’t fall at the end. Because usually you have those heartbreak waves where you almost make it and fall at the end. After I came out of that barrel, I just wanted to ride out and fully complete the ride. And that’s what I did. 

“It was such an insane feeling because I thought I was going to eat shit five different times on that wave. To come out and make a wave like that after so many years of getting sick waves, but not the ride you’re dreaming of, I’m super happy it happened today.”

Related: Gallery: Matahi Drollet and Ride for the Ages at Teahupo’o

‘The Wave I Was Dreaming of for So Many Years, and I Finally Got It’: Watch Matahi Drollet Defy the Odds at Teauhpo’o first appeared on Surfer on Jul 31, 2025